Aloo ke Gutke

Before you start

• Boil the potatoes a few hours ahead and let them cool completely before peeling and cutting — warm potatoes break up and turn to mash in the pan.
• Cut the chunks large and uneven; the ragged faces are what catch and crisp.
• This is a fast dish once the oil is hot, so have every spice measured out beside the stove.

Method

1. Heat the mustard oil in a kadhai over high heat until it smokes and the sharp smell mellows, about 2 minutes.Under-heated mustard oil leaves a raw, throat-catching bitterness that no amount of cooking fixes later.
2. Lower the heat to medium and crackle the mustard seeds until they pop, about 30 seconds, then add the cumin and broken red chillies.
3. Add the asafoetida and the slit green chillies and let them blister for 15 seconds.
4. Take the pan off the heat, stir in the turmeric, coriander powder and chilli powder, and count to five.Powdered spices scorch instantly in oil this hot; the residual heat is enough to bloom them.
5. Return to medium heat, tip in the potato chunks and salt, and toss until every piece is coated yellow.
6. Spread the potatoes in a single layer and leave them undisturbed for 4 minutes so a crust forms underneath.Stirring constantly is the most common mistake — the potatoes need still contact with the pan to crisp.
7. Turn them over in sections and fry another 5-6 minutes until the edges are brown and crisp in patches.
8. Squeeze over the lemon juice, scatter the coriander leaves and toss once.
9. Serve immediately, while the crust is still audible, with kumaoni raita or plain rice.

Storage

Best eaten straight from the pan. Leftovers keep 2 days refrigerated; re-crisp in a dry hot pan for 5 minutes rather than microwaving, which turns them soft.