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Pahari

Chana Madra

chickpeas simmered slowly in whisked yogurt until the gravy is silky, faintly sour and heavy with whole spice

vegetariangluten freeno onion garlichealthier
Prep20 min
Cook45 min
Total65 min
Serves6
Difficultymoderate

Contains: dairy, nuts

Ingredients

Quantities for 6.

  • 250g, soaked overnight Chickpeas
  • 500g full-fat, whisked completely smooth Yogurtsour, day-old curd is better than fresh
  • 5 tbsp Gheemadra is a generous dish; do not cut this below 4 tbsp
  • 1 tbsp Besanstabilises the yogurt so it will not splitoptional
  • 1 tsp Cumin Seeds
  • 1 piece, 3cm Cinnamon
  • 2, cracked Black Cardamom
  • 5 green, cracked Cardamom
  • 5 Cloves
  • 2 Bay Leaf
  • 1/4 tsp Asafoetidause compounded-free hing to keep this gluten-free
  • 2 tsp Coriander Powder
  • 1 tsp Fennel Powder
  • 1 tsp Dry Ginger Powdersonth carries the warmth that ginger root would in a plains curry
  • 1/2 tsp Turmeric
  • 1 tsp Kashmiri Chillicolour without heat
  • 1/2 tsp Garam Masala
  • 12, blanched and halved Almondsoptional
  • 2 tbsp Raisinsthe Chamba touch, a sweet note against the sour curdoptional
  • to taste Salt
  • 500ml Water

Equipment

stovetop, kadhai, pressure cooker

Before you start

  • Soak the chickpeas overnight in plenty of water. They should more than double.
  • Take the yogurt out of the fridge an hour ahead. Cold yogurt splits the moment it meets hot ghee.
  • Whisk the yogurt with the besan and a pinch of salt until there is not a single lump, then keep the whisk in the bowl - you will use it again.

Method

  1. Pressure cook the drained chickpeas with 500ml water and 1 tsp salt for 4 whistles, then let the pressure drop by itself. They should crush easily between finger and thumb but still hold their shape.Undercooked chana will never soften later - the acid in the yogurt sets them hard.
  2. Heat the ghee in a heavy kadhai until it thins and shimmers. Add the cumin, cinnamon, black cardamom, green cardamom, cloves and bay leaves and let them swell and crackle, about 40 seconds.
  3. Add the asafoetida, count to five, then take the pan off the heat entirely and let it cool for a full minute.This off-heat pause is the whole trick of madra. Yogurt going into ripping-hot ghee will curdle every time.
  4. Pour in the whisked yogurt, return to the lowest possible flame and stir continuously in one direction for 8 to 10 minutes, until the yogurt loses its raw smell and thickens to the consistency of pouring cream.Do not stop stirring and do not cover the pan until the yogurt has come to a boil once.
  5. Stir in the coriander powder, fennel powder, dry ginger, turmeric and kashmiri chilli. Cook 3 minutes more - the gravy will turn glossy and the ghee will start to bead at the edges.
  6. Add the drained chickpeas along with 150ml of their cooking water. Season with salt.
  7. Simmer uncovered on low for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring every few minutes, until the gravy coats the back of a spoon and a clear rim of ghee sits around the edge of the pan.That ring of separated ghee is how Chamba cooks judge madra is done.
  8. Fold in the almonds and raisins and cook 3 minutes so the raisins plump.
  9. Finish with the garam masala, cover and rest off the heat for 10 minutes before serving with plain rice.

Storage

Keeps 3 days refrigerated and genuinely improves on day two. Reheat very gently on low with a splash of water - a hard boil will break the yogurt.

Recipe v1.0.0, last updated 2026-07-31. Curated for Khaana and kept under version control.