Marchwangan Korma

Before you start

• Soak the whole Kashmiri chillies in warm water for 20 minutes, then grind to a smooth paste with their soaking water. This is what gives the korma its colour without scorching heat.
• Take the yogurt out of the fridge an hour ahead. Cold yogurt splits the moment it hits hot fat.
• Have the hot water in a kettle beside the pan; the gravy is built in stages and cold water stalls it.

Method

1. Heat the mustard oil until it stops smoking and the sharp raw smell fades, about 3 minutes, then let it cool for 30 seconds.Mustard oil must be taken to smoking point or the dish tastes bitter and raw.
2. Fry the whole shallots in the hot oil until they collapse and turn a soft brown, 6 to 7 minutes, then lift them out and set aside.
3. Slide in the mutton with the cloves, black cardamom, cinnamon and bay leaf and sear over high heat until the pieces are browned all over, about 10 minutes.Work in two batches if the pan is crowded. Steamed mutton will never build the fond this dish needs.
4. Add the crushed garlic and ginger and fry for 2 minutes until the raw edge is gone.
5. Pull the pan off the heat, wait a minute, then stir in the whisked yogurt in three additions, stirring constantly in one direction as it comes back to a bare simmer.One direction, no lid, and never let it hit a rolling boil until it has thickened. That is how you keep it from curdling.
6. Stir in the chilli paste, fennel powder, dry ginger powder and salt and fry over medium heat until the oil separates and floats red on the surface, 8 to 10 minutes.This bhuna stage is the whole dish. Stop early and it tastes of raw chilli.
7. Return the fried shallots, pour in the hot water and bring to a simmer.
8. Pressure cook for 4 whistles and rest until the pressure drops on its own, or cover and simmer on the lowest flame for 60 minutes until the meat pulls from the bone.
9. Uncover and reduce over medium heat until the gravy clings to the meat and a slick of red oil pools on top, about 10 minutes.
10. Sprinkle over the garam masala, swirl in the ghee and stand covered for 10 minutes before serving.The rest lets the fat rise and the colour deepen. Serve with plain rice, nothing else.

Safe temperatures: Whole cuts of mutton, beef and pork are done at 63°C / 145°F, rested 3 minutes. A long braise passes that well before the meat is tender. Reheat leftovers to 74°C / 165°F. FoodSafety.gov

Storage

Keeps 3 days refrigerated and improves overnight. Reheat gently on the stovetop with 3 tbsp water; do not microwave, which splits the gravy.