Nadan Mutton Curry

Before you start

• Bring the mutton to room temperature for 30 minutes and pat it thoroughly dry. Wet meat steams instead of browning.
• Marinate the mutton with the turmeric, half the chilli powder and 1 tsp salt for 30 minutes while you slice the shallots.
• Slice the shallots as thin as you can manage; they are meant to melt into the gravy, not sit in it.

Method

1. Dry-roast the grated coconut in a heavy kadhai over medium-low heat for 10-12 minutes, stirring, until it is chocolate brown and smells nutty, then cool and grind with 100ml water to a smooth dark paste.Grind this paste for a full 3 minutes. Gritty coconut paste is the most common flaw in this curry.
2. Heat 3 tbsp coconut oil in a pressure cooker and fry the whole cinnamon, cloves and cardamom for 30 seconds until fragrant.
3. Add the sliced shallots and onion and fry over medium heat for 15 minutes until deeply browned and sweet. This is the longest active step and it cannot be shortened.Pale onions make a thin, sharp curry. Wait for the colour of dark honey.
4. Add the ginger, garlic and green chillies and fry 3 minutes until the raw smell lifts.
5. Lower the heat, add the coriander powder, kashmiri chilli, remaining chilli powder, fennel powder and black pepper and fry 90 seconds, sprinkling in a tablespoon of water if the spices catch.A tablespoon of water at the first hint of sticking saves the whole masala from burning.
6. Add the tomatoes and 2 sprigs of curry leaves and cook 5 minutes until the tomatoes break down and oil shows at the edges.
7. Stir in the marinated mutton and fry over high heat for 6-8 minutes until every piece is coated and the meat has tightened and browned.
8. Add 400ml water and the salt, close the cooker and cook on medium for 5 whistles, then let the pressure fall naturally, around 15 minutes.
9. Open the cooker, stir in the roasted coconut paste and simmer uncovered 15-20 minutes until the gravy is thick, dark and clings to the meat.The gravy should coat a spoon heavily. If it is still loose, keep it on the heat rather than adding thickener.
10. Stir in the garam masala, taste for salt, and take off the heat.
11. Heat the last tablespoon of coconut oil in a small pan, fry the remaining curry leaf sprig for 10 seconds and pour it over the curry.
12. Rest 15 minutes covered before serving with appam, kappa or rice.

Safe temperatures: Whole cuts of mutton, beef and pork are done at 63°C / 145°F, rested 3 minutes. A long braise passes that well before the meat is tender. Reheat leftovers to 74°C / 165°F. FoodSafety.gov

Storage

Keeps 3 days refrigerated and 2 months frozen. Reheat gently on the stovetop with 2-3 tbsp water; the flavour is noticeably better on day two.