Berry Pulao

Before you start

• Soak the basmati in cold water for 30 minutes, then drain in a colander for 10 minutes. This is the difference between separate grains and a clump.
• Marinate the chicken in the yogurt, ginger-garlic paste, garam masala and salt for at least 1 hour, or overnight.
• Steep the saffron in the warm milk for 20 minutes; it should stain the milk deep orange.
• Toss the raisins and slivered apricot with the lemon juice and leave 15 minutes so they turn properly tart.

Method

1. Fry the sliced onion in 4 tbsp ghee over medium heat for 15 minutes until dark brown and crisp, drain on paper, and set a third aside for the garnish.
2. Fry the cashews in the same ghee for 1 minute until golden and set aside.
3. Add the marinated chicken to the pan with two thirds of the fried onion and cook uncovered 20 minutes over medium heat until the yogurt tightens around the meat.If the yogurt splits, keep going and stir. It comes back together as the water cooks off.
4. Stir in half the mint and coriander and cook 3 minutes more, then set the chicken aside off the heat.
5. Bring 3 litres of water to a rolling boil with the cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, bay leaf, black pepper and 2 tbsp salt.Salt it like pasta water. This is the rice's only chance to be seasoned.
6. Add the drained rice and boil 4 to 5 minutes, until a grain crushes between your fingers but still has a hard white core.Seventy percent cooked, no more. The rice finishes on dum and mush is irreversible.
7. Drain the rice immediately and spread it on a tray to stop the cooking.
8. Layer the chicken in a heavy pot, then the rice, then the lemon-soaked raisins and apricots, the reserved fried onion, cashews and the rest of the herbs.
9. Drizzle over the saffron milk and the remaining 1 tbsp ghee, seal the pot with a tight lid or foil, and cook on the lowest heat 20 minutes, or in a 160C oven for 25.
10. Rest 10 minutes sealed, then open and lift the pulao from the sides with a flat spoon so the layers stay visible.Never stir it round. Fold and lift, or the grains break.

Safe temperatures: Chicken and duck are done at 74°C / 165°F, taken at the thickest part and clear of the bone. Reheat leftovers to 74°C / 165°F. FoodSafety.gov

Storage

Keeps 3 days refrigerated. Reheat covered with 2 tbsp water sprinkled over, on low heat or in a 150C oven for 15 minutes, so the rice steams rather than dries.