Rasam

Before you start

• Cook 3 tbsp toor dal with 1 cup water until collapsing, and keep both dal and its water.
• Soak the tamarind in hot water for 15 minutes, then squeeze and strain out 1 cup of thick extract.
• Crush the pepper and cumin together coarsely in a mortar — powder from a jar tastes flat here.

Method

1. Squash the tomatoes into the tamarind extract with your hand and add the turmeric, rasam powder and salt.Hand-crushed tomato gives the pulpy body a knife cannot.
2. Simmer this uncovered on medium heat for 8 minutes, until the raw tamarind smell goes and the surface turns matte.If it still smells sharply sour, give it 2 more minutes.
3. Stir in the crushed pepper and cumin and the garlic, and simmer 2 minutes more.
4. Pour in the mashed dal loosened with 2 cups of water and the dal cooking liquid.
5. Bring it to the point where a rim of froth rises at the edges, then take it straight off the heat.Never let rasam roll to a full boil — it goes dull and heavy.
6. Heat the ghee in a small pan, pop the mustard seeds, then add the red chilli, curry leaves and hing.The seeds must crackle within 5 seconds or the ghee is not hot enough.
7. Pour the tempering over the rasam and cover for 2 minutes to trap the aroma.
8. Stir through the coriander leaves and serve over hot rice, or in a tumbler alongside.

Storage

Keeps 3 days refrigerated and tastes better on day two. Reheat only to steaming, never boiling.