Siddu

Before you start

• The dough needs 3 hours in a warm place. In a cold kitchen sit the covered bowl over a pan of hand-hot water.
• Dry roast the poppy seeds in a pan until they smell nutty and start popping, about 2 minutes, then cool before crushing.
• Crush the walnuts in a mortar or under a rolling pin. A blender turns them to oily paste.

Method

1. Mix the atta, baking soda and 1 tsp salt. Work in the yogurt, then the lukewarm water a little at a time, to a soft dough slightly stickier than roti dough. Knead 8 minutes.Softer than you think is right. A stiff dough steams into a dense brick.
2. Oil the surface, cover with a damp cloth and leave in a warm spot for 3 hours. It should look puffed and feel airy, not doubled like bread.
3. Meanwhile mix the crushed walnuts, roasted poppy seeds, mustard oil, green chilli, ginger, coriander leaves, ajwain, cumin powder, chilli powder, black pepper and salt into a damp, crumbly filling.
4. Knock the dough back gently and divide into 8 balls. Do not knead it hard again.
5. Roll each ball into a 12cm disc. Put 2 heaped tbsp of filling on one half, fold over into a half moon and press the curved edge firmly, then pleat it shut with your fingers.Seal properly or the filling weeps out and the siddu collapses in the steamer.
6. Rest the shaped siddus, covered, for 15 minutes while the steamer comes up to a rolling boil.
7. Grease the steamer plate, arrange the siddus with 2cm between them and steam on high for 18 to 20 minutes.Do not lift the lid before 15 minutes - the drop in steam makes them sink.
8. Test with a skewer through the thickest part: it should come out clean and dry. Give them 3 more minutes if not.
9. Take them out, split the tops slightly and pour a tablespoon of melted ghee over each. Serve hot with mash dal or a chutney.

Storage

Best within a few hours. Keeps 2 days refrigerated; re-steam 6 to 8 minutes to bring back the softness, or slice and pan-fry in ghee. Do not microwave - they go rubbery.