Vatha Kuzhambu

Before you start

• Soak the tamarind in hot water 20 minutes and strain out about 2 cups of extract.
• Peel the shallots and leave them whole — they should stay recognisable in the finished gravy.
• This curry needs a long slow reduction, so start it before the rice.

Method

1. Heat the sesame oil in a kadhai and pop the mustard seeds.
2. Add the fenugreek seeds and chana dal and fry 20 seconds until the fenugreek turns reddish.Fenugreek that goes dark brown makes the whole pot bitter — pull it early.
3. Add the red chillies, curry leaves and hing and let them crackle.
4. Add the whole shallots and garlic and fry 5 minutes until the shallots are browned in patches and glossy.
5. Stir in the sambar powder and turmeric and fry 30 seconds in the oil.
6. Pour in the tamarind extract with the salt and jaggery and bring to a simmer.
7. Simmer uncovered on low heat for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring occasionally.
8. It is done when the volume has dropped by a third and the sesame oil floats clear on top.That floating oil is the whole test. Until it appears, the tamarind still tastes raw.
9. If it is still thin after 25 minutes, stir in the slaked rice flour and cook 2 minutes more.
10. Rest 10 minutes off the heat and serve with rice, a spoon of sesame oil and a poriyal.

Storage

Keeps a week refrigerated and improves for the first three days — the oil seals it. Reheat gently; do not freeze.